
Out among the wheat fields and rolling hills of the Palouse
in eastern Washington stands a monument to railroading's finest moment.
Back in a time when the railroads were so vital to this nation and it's
citizens, that branches were built to serve the most remote of locations.
It was also the beginning of the era of grand engineering, where designers
would push the limits of steel and wood, man and muscle. During this era
which ended abruptly with the start of World War One, several notable lines
were constructed with big bridges and long tunnels. The goal was to make
a line as straight, level and fast as one could. With the Pacific Northwest
being the last railroad frontier of the early 20th century, the engineering
technology of the time was put to the test here.
Two competitors sought to build the best line that
they could from the Columbia River in southeast Washington to the thriving
eastern Washington community of Spokane. One of the competitors was the
Spokane, Portland & Seattle, sadly it's tracks have been taken up by
successor Burlington Northern in a rather short-sighted cost cutting move.
But the other competitor, the Union Pacific railroad is enjoying a traffic
upswing that has made it's "Washy" route busier than it ever has
been. For UP, a serious engineering obstacle resulted in a steel goliath
the rests peacefully across the Snake river in the semiarid landscape of
southeast Washington.
History
Now for a little history. At the turn of the century (the 1800-1900
one) the OWRN's (a early UP subsidiary, the Oregon-Washington Railroad
& Navigation Co.) route from northeast Oregon to Spokane, the
heart of the Inland Empire, was a twisting line through the Palouse Hills
of far eastern Washington. This route which left the mainline at Pendleton,
OR and went north through Walla-Walla and Dayton to the Snake River at
Riparia. After crossing the Snake River the line once again climbed into
the hills first north and then east to Colfax, WA. Going north out of Colfax
the line eventually made it to Tekoa. At Tekoa the line split (the wye
fell in the shadow of Milwaukee Road's large trestle that was built later).
From Tekoa OWRN could either go through Plummer or Fairfield to Manito
Jct., where the two lines rejoined. Come 1910, OWRN was competing for Spokane
to Portland traffic with the original NP line and the newly built SP&S
line to Spokane. To say the least OWRN's long-way-around route wasn't cutting
it. OWRN made the fateful decision to construct a straighter and faster
route. The first part of the route had actually been constructed in 1899
by OWRN subsidiary, Snake River Valley RR. A line from Wallua (Where OWRN's
first predecessor had started constructing it's Wallua to Walla-Walla line
before 1880) along the "Snake" to Riparia. But to really compete OWRN still
needed a line that avoided the Palouse hills altogether.
The final piece of the route involved a new line
that began climbing at Ayer Jct., crossed the Snake and continued to climb
along Cow Creek until it reached the top of the Columbia Plateau where
it made a bee-line to Cheney and Marshall Canyon for it's grand entrance
into Spokane and a new joint UP/MILW passenger station. But before any
real construction could begin, the bridge had to be built across the Snake.
So beginning in 1911 and finishing the bridge in 1912, the new line cut
away at Ayer Jct., MP 269.7 and climbed a .6% compensated grade up to the
south end of the bridge. The .6% grade continued across the bridge
and up the Cow Creek Canyon. The Joso bridge has 55 spans and is 3920'
long. It also stands some 261' above the bottom of the Snake River. But
Lower Monument Dam built in 1968 submerged the lower 67' of the bridge
piers leaving only 194' between the top of the bridge and the surface of
the river.
A siding named Joso was located at the northern
foot of the bridge. The rest of the line was completed and opened for operation
on September 15th, 1914. This route from Hinkle to Spokane is commonly
referred to as the "Washy", a hangover from the days of UP's Washington
Division. The line is now the Ayer sub of the Portland Division. Two dam
projects along the lower Snake (Ice Harbor and Lower Monument) and one
(McNary) on the Columbia River has caused nearly half of the line
between Hinkle and Ayer to be relocated since the 1950's.
On the northern end of the line, the UP took control
of the Spokane International, a longtime interchange partner in Spokane.
UP took control in the 1940's but didn't fully merge the line until 1965.
The SI was built by Canadian Pacific interests after the turn of the century.
That line extended north-east out of Spokane and curving north through
Idaho to Sandpoint and Bonners Ferry. The line then climbed out of the
Kootenai River Valley and threaded it's way north to a connection with
the CP on the Canadian border at Eastport, ID./Kingsgate, BC. The old SI
is now known as the Spokane sub of the Portland Division. This completes
the line we know today. All of the branches in the Palouse Hills have been
either abandon or sold to shortlines, leaving just the Hinkle-Spokane main
and the short branch to Riparia and another to Kennewick, WA from Wallua.
Trip Report
On Saturday April 1st, 2000 (but this ain't no joke) Ron Trowbridge,
his wife Kelley and I left north Idaho on a railfan trip to UP's Joso Bridge.
None of us had been to this remote location before, and the only real reason
you'd want to go there is for the railroad action. A couple of other factors
also prompted the trip.
One is that traffic has steadily been on the
increase for the last two years with some significant trains being added
over the winter. Among those is the new PGEX coal trains which have added
5 trains a week in each direction over the line, but the other new operation
is even more unique. Every Saturday the Blue Mountain RR (BLMR) runs a
"Grain Shuttle" train starting out of Wallua in the morning with a couple
BLMR geeps (usually the GP35's). After collecting the empty grain cars
from the Port Kelley and Port Wallua barge loading facilities at Wallua
on the Columbia River, the grain shuttle ventures north over the UP on
trackage rights through Ayer and Joso to Hooper Jct. where it returns to
it's own tracks. This northern line was once known as the Palouse River
Railroad (PRR), but to avoid confusion with the nearby Palouse River and
Coulee City RR (reporting marks PCC) it's name was changed to BLMR. The
BLMR, PRR, and PCC are all owned by WATCO and the PRR and PCC used to share
a office in Colfax, WA.
The other reason for going on this particular Saturday
was that UP was still busy trying to clear up a massive backlog of trains
resulting from a derailment at Ayer Jct. earlier that week. The derailment
happened on March 27, 2000 and involved the CBUPG (PGEX coal train). The
last 10 cars of the train derailed and with a few of them tumbling down
the hill. The line was blocked for more than a day causing a major backlog
of trains on this already over-stressed line. The backup was so severe
that it took a few weeks before things started to settle down.
Our first stop was the PF&S model railroad warehouse
in Pasco to pick up some much needed model railroad supplies. This is located
just north of Pasco and just off of 395. From Pasco go north until Sagemore
Rd. and make a left. Go over the tracks and make a right on the next road
(Ione Rd). Head up this gravel road to the cluster of buildings just ahead
and pull in. This is PF&S and Sharon is the lady who runs the place.
She will be able to help you locate what you need. I must warn you though,
it will take you some time to browse through the selection which includes
several items that have been long discontinued and out of stock at most
other places.
After grabbing the items that Ron and myself needed for our
modeling, we took a quick swing by BNSF's large Pasco hump yard. This is
BNSF primary classification facility in the Pacific Northwest. Several
dozen manifest trains enter and leave the facility on a daily basis. This
is also where you want to fill up, mainly because Pasco frequently has
the lowest gas prices in the northwest. (A couple years ago gas got down
under 80 cents a gallon here). After a bite to eat we head back north on
395 to Connell.
At Connell we got off the highway and made a right onto
Hwy. 260. Following this road to Kahlotus, we turned right onto Devils
Canyon Rd. and climbed up a short hill. As you go up the hill, look to
the left and you'll see the abandon SP&S grade swing in beside the
road and dive into a tunnel that passes under the road. As you crest the
hill you enter a very steep sided canyon. Down the middle of the canyon
you can see where so many photos were taken of this SP&S line during
it's final years of operation under BN stewardship.
Follow the road down the canyon until you reach the Snake
River and the Lower Monument Dam. Use the "road" (and I do use this term
loosely, no big trucks or RVs here) across the dam to continue the journey.
The road is only open between 6am and 7pm each day, so if you don't make
it you will have to back track to Kahlotus and then make a right onto Hwy.
260. and go north a few miles and make another right onto Hwy. 261. and
follow it to the Snake River.
Anyway, back to where we were. Following the road
across the dam and up the other side of the canyon you soon cross the UP
tracks which follow the Snake River on it's south side. Continuing up the
road and looking west down the canyon back on the SP&S side you will
see three of the large bridges on the old SP&S grade. There is one
place where you can even get all three of the big bridges in one shot,
too bad I never saw that shot with a train in it.
Continue to follow Lower Monumental Rd. south
several miles until you reach Casey Rd. Turn left onto Casey Rd. and follow
it north to Ayer. Ayer is a place that can either be busy or just dead.
Camas Prairie Railnet (The shortline operator who took over operation from
BN and UP) brings it's manifest interchange traffic into Ayer six days
a week except Saturday. Fortunately for us, with the backlog of interchange
traffic from the recent derailment on the UP, CSP was in Ayer this Saturday
dropping off a interchange train and picking up one from UP this Saturday.
Also in the yard was a light set of UP power trying to add another loco
to it's consist. Anyway, after a couple photos of the CSP locos, we soon
left to see the ultimate goal of the trip, the Joso Bridge.
The UP road channel (160.740) was mostly silent since
Pasco, but I believe that was mostly due to the fact that we were driving
along the bottom of Coulees far from the UP line. So mostly unaware of
where all the trains were we left Ayer south on Ayer Rd. after several
miles we drove into the wide spot in the road called Pleasant View. Make
a left here and follow the new Lyons Ferry Rd. until you reach Hwy. 261.
Once at Hwy. 261, make a left and in a short distance you will be at the
Snake River and the Joso Bridge. We drove across the river and through
the fish hatchery to a quiet spot on the Snake. From here we could see
the bridge over the river and the line that climbed up to it's south end.
After half an hour of semi-constant radio chatter,
the first movement occurred. It was the now four unit light engine consist
heading down the Riparia branch. This seemed odd, because we hadn't heard
of UP having a use for the branch. The CSP uses it to get to UP's mainline
at Ayer Jct.
Several minutes after the light locomotives disappeared, I again
heard a rumbling but could not see a train. The rumbling continued for
a while with no train in sight. Finally I spotted a train climbing up toward
the south end of the bridge from Ayer Jct. The northbound MHKET had a UP
SD90MAC, two UP SD40-2's followed by two CP SD40-2's. The train was crawling
along at 5 mph as it climbed the south wall of the canyon and onto the
Joso Bridge.
As it ventured further onto the bridge I took a few photos and Ron captured
most of the climbing and crossing on video. As the train got toward the
near bank of the Snake river, we both realized that it was moving so slow
that we would be able re-position without any trouble. As we wound back
through the fish hatchery I grabbed my video camera and leaned out my window
to get some video of the train 150' above, praying that the local sheriff
wouldn't catch me pulling this stunt (I did get some great video for my
effort). We got back on Hwy 261 and headed north back under the bridge
climbing the hill till we were track level at the north end of the bridge.
From this pull-off we had a excellent view of the whole bridge reflecting
the late afternoon light on it's west side. Up on knoll on the other side
of the road, a group of deer were assembled enjoying the spectacle as well.

The train pulled to a stop at the south end of the
Joso siding and "toned" the DS. During this time we headed back down 261
and up Joso Rd. to about the mid-point of Joso. As I later found out, people
are not supposed to venture down this road because at the other end is
a indian burial ground. But since we remained within sight of the Park
Rangers house, he didn't seem inclined to chase us out. Over the scanner
we learned that this northbound was set to meet a southbound "grain shuttle"
at Joso, but that was still a little ways off.
We also learned that the light locos that we had seen earlier
went to Riparia to retrieve a grain train that CSP had set out there waiting
for the derailment to clear. That train was now ready to depart Riparia
for Ayer. We quickly returned to 261 and headed south across the Snake
to the lower RR bridge. Here we waited for the train to return in the fading
light. Even though direct sunlight had just recently been eclipsed from
the bridge, the light was terrific. Soon a headlight rounded a distant
bend near the river and flicker through the numerous cut along tracks.
Seemingly with little effort the train quickly made the curve on the far
bank and passed through the large truss. The result was a impressive photograph
with subtle lighting.
Jumping in the rig we soon caught up to the train and video-ed it's progress
towards Ayer in the shadows of the tall cliffs. As the road pulled away
from the Riparia branch and prepared to cross the Snake river, we could
see the Grain Shuttle pulling up to the south end of Joso. Since the sun
had set far enough down that it was no longer shining on the Joso Bridge,
but was painting the sky with red, orange and pink. I mentioned that
a silhouette photo would be perfect. So we pulled into the campground on
the north bank of the snake and threaded our way along the river to the
furthest most west camping spot. This is the ideal spot for camping as
you are just below the bridge and the Riparia branch is clearly visible
on the opposite bank. As the BLMR Grain Shuttle slowly eased out over the
river I began clicking away and Ron was busy with his Video Camera. As
the 35 car shuttle descended down to Ayer Jct., we just stood there adsorbing
the moment, and the end to a wonderful day.
It was just one of those perfect moments were the landscape was bathed
in the colors of the sunset, the temperature was just right with a slight
breeze coming off the river, and a train rumbling away in the distance.
Operations
UP's operations over this line have increased significantly in
the last couple of years. Here is a listing of trains and their jobs:
MHKET/METHK: This is the main train on this line. It operates
the whole length of the line from Hinkle to Eastport. This train can and
does run in more than one section. It also frequently sports solid consists
of CP SD40-2's, but can have any power UP or CP has on hand.
MHKSN/MSNHK: This is the Hinkle to Sandpoint, ID turn that operates
daily. It leaves Hinkle in the early afternoon and Sandpoint in the late
morning. It mainly picks up and drops off cars at Trentwood and Sandpoint.
this train usually has just two road units of UP lineage.
MHKSK/MSKHK: This train leaves Hinkle early in the morning and
arrives at the Spokane Yard around noon. It then departs Spokane mid-afternoon
and returns to Hinkle. This train also sports two road units and is often
short (roughly 30 cars) leaving and entering Spokane.
OETPD/OPDET, OHKET: This train carries potash from Canada to
a export terminal in Portland near Barnes Yard. Often this train is
made of solid strings of CanPotex cars, either the older cylindrical hoppers
or the newer Centerflows. The operation of this train varies a lot, from
1-5 times each week.
CBUPG/CPGBU: This is the PGEX (Portland General Electric) coal
trains of the BNSF/MRL in Spokane to the Boardman, OR facility. These trains
operate 3-5 times each week in each direction. BN/BNSF SD70MACS mostly
rule this train with occasional UP power. This train will not operate from
the middle of May till the end of July due to a maintenance shutdown at
the Boardman facility.
CETGV/CGVET: This is the Canada to Geneva, UT coal train that
operates a few times each month. The collection of coal cars in this train
boggles the mind, with cars from the likes UP, CNW, SP, DRGW, MP, CHTT,
MKT, and even BN.
WVXGRT/WGRVXT: This is just one of the many tie trains that operate
from CXT's facility at Velox, WA to anywhere on UP's lines east and north
Wyoming. These trains run as needed.
Locals also operate out of Wallua, Spokane, Trentwood and Sandpoint.
The trains listed above are the most common, other symbol freights do operate
over the Washy, but they are infrequent.
Timetable for the Ayer Sub
TW=Track Warrant
|
Milepost
|
Station Name
|
Track
|
Speed
|
|
354.8
|
Fish Lake Jct.
|
CTC Controlled Jct. (BNSF)
|
30
|
|
350.0
|
Cheney Siding 5010'
|
ABS Signal TW
|
35
|
|
343.3
|
Detector
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
333.2
|
Croskey
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
329.1
|
Wells Siding 6746'
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
310.7
|
Detector
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
306.2
|
Marengo Siding 3589'
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
293.0
|
Ankeny
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
285.0
|
Hooper Jct. 1845'
|
ABS Signal TW Jct. (BLMR)
|
40
|
|
283.8
|
Detector
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
279.7
|
Park
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
273.8
|
Joso Siding 6715'
|
ABS Signal TW
|
30
|
|
271.0
|
Joso Bridge
|
CTC Single Track
|
10
|
|
269.7
|
Ayer Jct.
|
CTC Jct. Riparia Branch (CSP)
|
30
|
|
268.1
|
Ayer Yard/Siding 11203'
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
256.7
|
Matthews Siding 9737'
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
253.9
|
Detector
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
246.7
|
Walker Siding 9736'
|
ABS Signal TW
|
40
|
|
235.9
|
Page Siding 9660'
|
CTC Siding
|
40
|
|
228.2
|
Ash
|
CTC Single Track
|
40
|
|
226.0
|
Detector
|
CTC Single Track
|
40
|
|
224.1
|
Sun Harbor
|
CTC Single Track
|
40
|
|
218.0
|
Wallua Heights
|
CTC Single Track
|
35
|
|
215.4
|
Wallua
|
CTC Jct. Yakima Br. (BNSF)
|
20
|
|
213.5
|
Wallua Jct. 7640'
|
CTC Jct. (BLMR)
|
20
|
|
202.5
|
Juniper Siding 7357'
|
CTC Siding
|
40
|
|
200.4
|
Detector
|
CTC Single Track
|
40
|
|
192.5
|
Cold Springs Siding 7406'
|
CTC Siding
|
40
|
|
185.1
|
North Hinkle
|
CTC Single Track
|
35
|
|
184.2
|
Hinkle
|
ABS Yard
|
15
|
Scanner Frequencies
Washy Dispatcher: 160.740
Hinkle Yard: 160.890
BLMR: 160.785
BNSF Boyer West: 161.250
Disclaimer: Nothing in this guide or anywhere
on this website, expressed or implied, gives you the right to trespass
or tamper with private property. You are simply liable for your own actions!!! |