You broke it, now you can
it!
UPDATE: I have completed all of the repair that I am physically
and mentally able to! I got the wheels back on , sans right axel shaft...
in preperation for a profesional to get at it! I plan on putting in a PowerTrax
LockRight in the rear and later this year, another one in the front. I
am also replacing all wheel and spindle bearings up front at this time
just for good measure, and I'll let the profesionals deal with the rears.
This page is mostly for my own benefit, so that I can put it back together
(I hope)!
For the curious at heart, here is a pic of what broke up front. 
The partial shaft mates to another partial shaft (not pictured), which
was ALREADY BROKEN during the fatal tug-o-war. Also, about half the gear
damage shown in this picture was already there!!! I would of opened a really
big can of whooop a** on that K5 Blazer had my front and rear ends actually
been OK!
The Haynes Truck manual was my guidebook. These books in my opinion
far exceed what you need to take apart, and put back together almost any
common assembly on your truck. But first let's set something straight --
about the fateful tug-o-war -- --
I won.
The Damned Chevy
I dragged him about 30 yards and figuring that I won and 'cause I'm
a nice guy, I backed off the gas to soak up my victory. The CAD then started
draggin me around! So I put it to the wood and stopped his progress until
the slip yoke U-Joint blasted away. Little did I know at that time, the
cause. What had happened was the front drive shaft U-Joints had seized
up on 2-3 out of 4 bearings each. After removing them, you could see that
2 or 3 out of the 4 needle bearing caps wouldn't turn with hand pressure
at all.
The slip yoke itself was broken. It was hanging on by barely 2-3mm of
metal per side. When it broke, the backlash in the ujoints and my insessant
pedal pressure wasted the axel and spider gears in the front differential.
They are gone!
Before that happened, here's a shot of the muddy horse (most graphics
are expandable, just click them and use the back arrow to return here).
Click the
picture, son!
After it happened, things looked like the following... (Picutre
of all the parts that broke on the front).
The rest of this page shows my attempts at repairing and documenting
the repair. Most pictures are clickable.
The result was a broken U-joint carrier on my Slip Yoke. The slip yoke
is the connector between the spline stub shaft (which juts outta the diff),
and the axel shaft proper. With that piece broken, you pretty much
have to take every wheel component off so you can yank out the axel.
First you have to remove the Tire and Rim (duh), that exposes the disc
and hub as shown. 
The hub has five torx head bolts holding it down and a little spring
in the middle. Once removed you expose the hub and the hub cover spring
and bearing. The spring is in the hub cover, and the bearing should still
be stuck on the hub as shown next. 
Remove the bearing and look for the lock-ring retainer. 
Removing this will allow you to compress the retainer ring and remove
the auto-hub itself.
.
Once the hub mechanism is out, you need to remove a splined spacer shown
here. Followed by a 'C' washer in a groove. Look around, it's there. Next
is a holy greassssy lock washer (a lock washer, grease covered, with holes
in it Batman), 
behind
that is the bearing retainer nut.
Before you take the spanner nut off, you'll have to remove the Brake
caliper. 
On mine it was held in place by some slide pins. Get the Haynes book,
it tells you all about it.
Removing the bearing lock nut, or spanner lock nut, requires a special
Spanner Locknut Wrench ($12.99 most places). You'll need that later putting
it back together. Oh, make sure you have a torque wrench that fits this,
it should be a 1/2 inch with at least 140 ft lbs on the dial. The book
says to tighten the final retainer nut to 150 ft lbs... ouch!
Once you have removed the spanner locknut, the bearing will come out,
and the hub is set free. The next picture is to show the placement of the
locnut and bearing in relation to the spindle. It's a mostly useless picture
because the bearing race, the inner bearing race on the hub isn't there,
you have to use your imagination!
Once the hub is off, you can release the six nuts holding the spindle onto
the camber plate (is that what it's called?). Once that is done, you can
yank out the axel.
You're done. The other side is the same, roughly, just a little more messy
when the axel comes out. You'll lose diff oil if you pull it, and watch
out for the seal. If you bust it, it's take apart the diff time!
Here's a little picture showing the final results, with most parts on
a cloth. God help me put'em back together!
Use your BACK button or function to return to where-ever you where.
If you don't know where the back button is, you'll have to see this for
the rest of your surfin' life!
.
Removing the bearing lock nut, or spanner lock nut, requires a special
Spanner Locknut Wrench ($12.99 most places). You'll need that later putting
it back together. Oh, make sure you have a torque wrench that fits this,
it should be a 1/2 inch with at least 140 ft lbs on the dial. The book
says to tighten the final retainer nut to 150 ft lbs... ouch!
