If you are reading this page I'll assume you are looking for some answers about your new yard, or you are interested in beginning to garden.
Though I hate to admit it to anyone, I have killed my fair share of plants, wasted money on needless equipment and have planted specimens in completely inappropriate areas. What I hope to accomplish with this page is very simple. I want to share the things I learned the hard way so that new gardeners will hopefully not have to make the same mistakes. I want to make gardening user friendly. Honest, growing things isn't Rocket Science.
For me the answer is very simple. Flowers add beauty to any space they inhabit. Home grown vegetables and herbs add interest to your yard and flavor to your dinner table.
When you consider that people see your yard long before they see the care you took decorating the interior of your home. It only stands to reason the yard should be given the same consideration .
The yard sets the tone for your home. Whether covered in Ivy or surrounded by neatly trimmed hedges, your yard gives people a hint of what to expect from the people living inside.
I was blessed with parents who gardened. And over the years I have tended everything from a small patio container garden to differing sized yards with multiple flower beds. There is very little difference between tending containers and yard gardening. The basic principles are the same. With this in mind I will not make a distinction. If you have a patio container garden follow the rules of an in ground garden.
From the gate I want to state: There is NO such thing as a 'No Maintance Yard or Garden'. Even if you fill your entire yard in with cement, weeds will pop through cracks and dirt will need to be swept way. There are however simple things you can do to make yard and garden care much less work.
If you have never worked a yard before this is where I always start. What light do I have to work with? I chart in my head what areas get full sun, filtered sun, shade or part shade, taking into consideration trees or shrubs which may fill out over the season. A sunny spot in May could very well be shady in July when the sun moves into summer position and a tree puts on its leaves. Also small trees get big. No matter how much you dote, a plant with improper light it will fail to flourish and might well die.
Let's stop a moment to explain light. On nearly every plant you purchase there will be a tag indicating what its light requirements are.
1. Full Sun - At least 6 hours of direct sunlight during the growing season.
2. Full Sun/Part Shade - These plants do best when they have direct sun in the morning or afternoon with shade or filtered light the remainder of the day. (generally morning light is best, roses being an exception)
3. Part Shade - These are varieties who like the filtered light of a tree or reflected light from the house. They will not fair well under the intense heat of full sun.
4. Part Shade/Shade - Shade lovers such as ferns need little light to flourish, and will die in direct sun.
Please don't make the mistake of observing specimens in an established yard and decide you can break the rules because they apparently did. Plants such as Rodendrens, Camellias and Hydrangeas need Part Shade and lots of water. When you see them in established yards seemingly enjoying full sun, take into consideration there was probably a tree or hedge protecting them when they were put in. An old established plant can make adjustments a new one cannot.
There is NOTHING more important you can
do for a new plant than making it an appropriate home.
With this said let's look at the soil in your
yard. Plants are picky in this regard. Some like sandy or rich lofty soil,
others enjoy the stability of clay.
And please don't plant too close to your house. This encourages bugs to visit your home, and the roots can crack your foundation. If the soil in your yard isn't up to snuff, don't despair. There are a number of things you can do to rectify the situation.
The first and most effective is to select Natives. A Native plant is one that would grow in your area even without you. Be careful choosing Natives, some have the unnerving habit of taking over.
The second thing to do is 'amend' your soil. Amending is the process of combining better soil or compost to your existing soil. In most cases there is no need to amend your entire yard. I have had great success amending the soil in the planting area. Even the best beds will be made better with the addition of compost. Herbs and Vegetables in particular love Mushroom compost.
I am such a believer in compost I have two composters
in my yard. The first is a traditional black tube, about two feet across
and three feet high, I fill it with lawn clippings, weeds, kitchen waste
(excluding meat and dairy), and some paper. Every so often I turn the material
so it decomposes evenly.
The second is an experiment with worms. I have
a 20 gallon tote w/ lid containing drain holes in the bottom, screen, shredded
cardboard, worms from my yard and lots of kitchen waste (excluding meat
and dairy) along with last years leaves, some soil and sand.
Most nurseries have a good selection of compost at reasonable rates for those who don't wish to compost at home.
The final thing is to install raised beds. Raised beds achieve a number of admirable things.
a. Raised beds ensure proper drainage.
b. Raised beds seem to have fewer problems with
insects and weeds.
c. Raised beds make room for mulch and make amending
easier.
d. Raised beds reduce the amount of digging you
might other wise do and naturally create walkways between them.
Creating your flower bed or garden.
There are several ways to achieve a flower bed
or garden spot, most involve digging.
Raised beds are always a suitable option. They
are every thing I listed above and will fit just about anywhere. They are
also great to lift a garden to a height more manageable for less flexible
gardeners. This also does away with having to dig, you simply fill it with
bagged soil and compost.
The old fashioned double ditching method is best
for digging. This is where you dig a shallow ditch about 12 to 18" deep
and the width of your bed, then fill it in with the dirt from the next
ditch. At the end you retrieve the dirt from the first ditch to fill the
last ditch.
Then the garden can be rototilled and raked for
a premium flower or vegetable bed.
If you don't want to do this, or as in my case
shouldn't because of injuries, I devised a simpler method.
In my back yard I wanted a vegetable garden. Major obstacle grass. I simply couldn't lift all that sod and remain comfortable. (And a rototiller won't handle established grass) Instead here is what I did.
1. I purchased 'landscaping plastic' (not lawn or garbage bags) Landscape plastic wicks water into the soil while depriving the underlying flora of light. Lawn and garbage bags will create a moldy mess.
2. I laid the plastic over the area securing it with 1x2's that had nails pounded through every six inches. I had these from painting and this seemed a useful way of disposing of them.
3. I covered the entire area with a mixture of mulch and aged steer manure.
4. A month or so later, when I figured the grass was dead, I started to plant my garden.
5. With a flat edged shovel and utility knife I made holes where things would be planted. I separated the dead grass easily from the dirt and tossed it in my compost pile.
6. I amended the soil in the holes, and planted,
carefully brushing the mulch around the new plants.
I had pumpkins, cucumbers, tomatos and watermelon
for the entire neighborhood.
For flower beds next to a house, landscape plastic is also an option. I would use gravel rather than woodbark next to a house. Woodbark attracts insects such as termites and carpenter ants which may move into your house. Woodbark also composts well. Why waste it on top of plastic?
*A note to container gardeners. If you chose deep pots or half whiskey barrels you don't have to fill the entire thing with soil. Broken pots, rocks and the like make for good drainage and save you money on soil. Only twelve to eighteen inches are required in most cases. Roses and trees being an exception.
All right, we have charted our light, fixed the soil and know where we want to plant, now for the plants.
I have absolutly no way of knowing where you live or what would be approprate for your circumstance. I would like to share a few hints on chosing healthy plants, and saving money.
A note of caution before we move on.
*If you have small children or pets in your yard
be advised many perenials and annuals are toxic. Such varities include,
Foxglove (Digatalis), O'leanders, and Couleus. These three in particular
can be potentially very dangerous. If you are uncertain, ASK!,
It is much better to do without a beautiful specimen
than to lose a pet or have a sick child.
When handling or pruning toxic plants, wear gloves
and be careful to wash and change your clothing.
IE) O'leanders are completely toxic. I got a rash
from pruning them. (My arms looked as if I'd been flogged) The simple act
of burning the wood or foliage of an O'leander can make you sick or kill
you. It cannot be composted for the same reason. Obviously this is not
a plant to make hotdog sticks from.
It is alright to have such plants in your yard
so long as you understand how to handle them.
I like to plant Perenials. These are varieties
of plants which will return year after year.
Many people enjoy Annuals, those species which
only bloom for one year. Some may reseed themselves if not watched, but
for the most part they are a single year garden.
Whether you choose Perenials, Annuals or a mixture, keep in mind your space and that the plants will grow regardless of their size when purchased.
Patience will save you the more money than any other advise I have to offer. .99 cent six pack starter plants given proper care will quickly catch up to their 4 inch and one gallon counter parts. Given that four inch pots often cost a dollar or so for one plant and gallon containers from $3.99 and above you can readily see the savings involved.
Personally I have little success from seeds, but again seeds can save a good deal of money.
Whether you chose to order from a catalog or buy from your local nursery, be advised: That cute little one inch container could be like a Great Dane puppy, innocent and small at first only to grow to a gigantic beast by the end of summer or in a couple of years. Make certain the variety you are buying will not outgrow its new home. Estimations of full growth are often listed in the catalog and on markers found with the plant. If uncertain...please ask.
A word on Mail Order
Make sure the plants you order are suited for the zone you live in.
A plant which will grow in California may not necessarily be happy in Minnesota and vice versa. IE) Lilacs will grow in southern climates, but most varieties require a frost to bloom in the spring.
Keep in mind that you get what you pay for. There are one or two questionable mail order businesses. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
I've ordered from 'Michigan Bulb' and while I haven't had any problems with receiving my order, as I understand some have, the plants were under size, sickly and took a year or two to establish, if they didn't die.
Personally, I didn't expect too much...so I wasn't very disappointed.
Mail order is a fantastic way to obtain specimens which may not be available at a local nursery. By the time you add shipping and handling, rarely is there much savings involved, however I will admit to enjoying the freedom of shopping from home.
I have had good luck with a couple of mail order companies. My advice is to do your homework, before you order. It is highly unlikely that a reputable, well established company will give you any problems.
Before you take a step toward your garden there
are a couple of items I suggest you have.
*With all garden equipment, buy the best you can
afford. Price doesn't always mean quality so inspect the item for sturdiness
and shop around. Nothing is more aggravating than equipment failure in
the middle of a project.
1. A pair of sturdy garden gloves. I have leather for my roses and industrial latex for planting. The industrial latex (not household types) keeps my hands clean, dry, protect against blisters, and outlast canvas counterparts, which fail miserably in most of the above categories.
2. A hand spade and trowel
3. A round nose shovel and a flat nose if you are digging sod.
4. A garden rake.
5. Pruning shears
6. A good shower nozzle or watering can
7. Knee cushion (This is a life saver in rocky or concrete areas, and keeps the mud off your knees)
8. Wheel barrow or Garden cart
No matter what I am planting I ALWAYS follow the same rules.
Since devising this method I have limited my losses to only sickly plants which didn't have much of a chance anyway. (I'm a sucker for the runt.)
1. Dig a hole the width and depth recommended on the tag or big enough to accommodate the root ball with the dirt from the container the plant was purchased in, plus several inches.
2. I add fertilizer to the hole, consisting of a high number fertilizer such as Miracle grow or Schultz, a Systemic Rose and Flower formula and fish emulsion (brand makes little difference), then I fill the hole with water to check drainage and dissolve the fertilizer.
3. I gently loosen the roots and place the plant in the drained hole. Using my hands I completely cover the root ball raising the soil level up no further than one half inch above the original potting soil. Firmly press the new soil around the new plant and water it again. Never use your feet or pound dirt in around new plants. At best they will get sickly, at worst they will die...generally the latter.
On all fertilizer there is a spread of numbers for instance 8-12-4 this indicates 8% nitrogen, 12% phosphate and 4% potassium and other minerals. I chose the higher numbers for planting because it gives young plants a jump start. If you are planting acid lovers make sure to use an appropriate product.
Systemic fertilizers are generally low as shown above, but they have the admirable quality of keeping aphids, thrips and spider mites out of my garden. I've been using a systemic product at planting and every six weeks over the growing season for three years and haven't seen a single one of these pests in the entire time. Nor have any catipillars munched my flowers. (Huge toothy grin)
Fish emulsion contains vitamin B1 and is a inexpensive way to prevent transplant shock.
*Please don't plant in the heat of the day. Plants are more likely to suffer from transplant shock if they are in direct midday sun or heat when planted, a condition which might well kill them. Morning and Evening planting is preferable.
With your new garden planted now you might think your job is complete, well not quite. Now we want to look at protecting your investment.
I always put down a carpet of mulch over the new bed. This keeps the weeds down and those which do appear are easy to pull, because they are fooled into thinking they are deeply rooted when they aren't. The mulch reduces the amount of watering I need to do as well.
There is very little that makes it to my yard waste bin. In the fall I dump leaves into my flower beds and garden. In the summer I spread lawn clippings in all of my beds. So as you can see this doesn't have to be a costly project. It is just as easy to dump your lawn mower bag on the flower beds and garden as it is into bags or a yard waste bin.
*A minor point, earwigs like grass clipping too. These little pests aren't deterred by the systemic and love to munch blossoms. I generally give the new clippings a light spray of a product which will kill earwigs and their cohorts. Without rain one application is sufficant.
No matter where you are gardening Marigolds are a good idea to reduce the number of insect visitors not warded off by the systemic, or in the vegetables where the systemic shouldn't be used. A ring of Marigolds around a garden is not only decorative but very helpful. Marigolds come in a variety of colors, styles and sizes. Chose the one best for you.
There are a number of products on the market for insect and disease control. Most of the sprays and powders are toxic to fish, birds and can pollute water sources. This is why I chose the systemic method and Marigolds for insect control unless pushed. The choice is entirely yours.
There are 'safer' alternative products, but I've met with limited success using them.
For disease control I spray when I see evidence of damage. I remove all diseased foliage and then spray in the morning. Generally this is the calmest time of the day, and I want to reduce drifting. This is also when I spray for weeds. Weed killer can sicken or poison your wanted plants so take care to protect them.
Whatever you decide please follow the directions of the product you buy to the letter.
If you are unfortunate enough to live with slugs and snails, beware they love Marigolds and nearly every bedding plant known to man. If they don't eat them, then they live in them. These pests can clear cut a new flower bed in the course of an evening, leaving you to wonder if you only dreamt you planted a garden.
There are a number of products on the market to control slugs and snails in your yard. Of them I'm partial to the liquid dripped around each new plant. I like this because they don't have to eat it, just touch it and they are toast. It is also advisable if you know where the little buggers are living to contain them with a line around their home. This method will withstand multiple rains, it is relatively nontoxic so it won't kill birds, fish or pollute water as some products can and ends up more cost efficient.
I have heard about tuna cans with beer, but I don't like the idea of wasting beer like that and the smell of stale beer in my flower bed doesn't sound overly tasteful to me. As a result I've never tried it.
I'm not familar with deer, rabbits, gopher or moles...and with luck I never will be. I have heard Blood meal works best, please consult with someone more knowledgable if it doesn't.
One last word on pest
control.
Not all insects and critters are a threat to your
garden. Resist the urge to kill spiders, ladybugs, garden snakes, frogs
and turtles. If they get into your house have at it. While in your garden
consider them to be your help-mates. These creatures eat the very things
which are looking to eat your garden.
Also if you put in a butterfly garden, be prepared
to identify catipillars. It makes no sense to lure a creature into your
yard then end its life cycle.
Now you are finished. If you have followed my
directions you should have a garden you can enjoy with little maintenance
for the remainder of the season.
Watering
Watering is dependent upon where you live and the
plants you chose. Please note that over watering can be as harmful as under
watering. My advise, water the flowers when you water the lawn. For containers
in hot weather, a general rule is every other day. Watering thoroughly
a couple times a week is better than a touch every day. The roots are deep
and that's where the water needs to be.
Either water in the early morning or late afternoon.
Midday watering shocks the plants and you end up losing much of the water
to evaporation. Night watering can promote diseases such as mildew, rust
and black spot.
Fertilizing
Feeding is something I do once a month or so. I manage because I continue with the high number products, and the systemic over the course of the season. My advise is to try a variety of products when they are on sale and stick with what works for you. Also remember some plant varieties require different nutrients. Make certain you have fertilizers on hand which are suited to the varieties you have, and please do follow the directions on the container.
A couple of feeding hints.
a. Always apply fertilizer at the drip line of a plant. This is the imaginary line which would be created if the plant was dripping water.
b. When using dry or systemic fertilizer I found punching two inch holes around the drip line with a stick or broom handle helps direct the fertilizer and speeds up intake. And always throughly water in dry fertilizers. If you don't, they won't get to the level where they will do any good, and some could burn young feeder roots.
Deadheading
This is the process of removing old flowers. Deadheading
makes your plants look better and encourages them to bloom for a longer
period of time, extending your investment. It will also keep flowers like
Black Eyed Susan's from taking over your yard. This process generally will
not encourage spring bulbs to bloom longer, but it still makes for a neater
looking garden. I do this while enjoying my flowers. Several minutes at
a time adds up, you needn't spend an entire day at the task when little
by sure works just as well. Same applies to weeding.
Pruning
Pruning is as individual as each plant though
there are some similar rules.
1. Mid-season pruning should be minimal. During
the growing season you want to shape your plants to keep them from choking
each other out. Even in a well spaced garden this can become a problem.
But don't cut plants back too far in the summer. Insects are a constant
threat to prune wounds.
2. Fall pruning can be more aggressive as you ready your perenials for the winter. All annuals should be removed from the beds and either composted or thrown away. Dying tomato or other plants left in a bed can be attractive to insects looking for a place to winter their eggs.
With trees make sure they are dormant. Pruning non-dormant trees can invite a host of unwanted guests into your yard, which could do damage to your tree. Tree pruning can also be done in the spring *before* the tree buds. If you are forced to prune a tree in season, purchase a sealant to protect the wound.
If you live in a frost zone prune all roses and perenials which need to be protected after the first frost, and cover them completely with leaves, straw or some other organic material so they will safely winter. Covering the bud union of roses with a mound of soil won't hurt anything in addition to the mulch.
In milder climates removing half the wood of your perenials (not trees) is sufficient. Pruning promotes good air circulation, keeps pernials from becoming woody and out of control. Pruning also encourages strong new growth each season which may extend the life of your plant. Please note some perenials flower on old wood, meaning last seasons growth. Make certain this isn't the case before you prune.
A. I get rid of all twiggy growth first.
B. Then I concentrate on large old branches which are likely to die during the next season.
C. I clear the center for air and light.
D. With roses I remove all foliage before pruning
then mound them for the winter with compost or mulch. Plants such as Lipstick
stage and Heavenly bamboo are given one last meal after pruning and left
to rest.
Mums, Salvia, Yarrow and other species which die
back every year are trimmed to the ground, fed and mulched.
One last suggestion before I wrap this up.
I believe it is a good idea to keep of log of all your plants and where they are located in your yard. During the growing season it is easy to remember where everything is. After a long winter, and you are eager to add new plants...your memory might fail you. As a result you might kill something or have to wait until everything tells you where it is.
In addition it can become difficult to remember the names of all your plants. I've got stakes to help me, and a log just to be sure. Finally a log will help when you go to sell your house.
The yard is the first thing anyone sees of your home. It should say, "Come see what treasures I hold for you."
The house with well kept flower beds will sell
more quickly than one which is weed infested. The prospective owners may
be swayed if sufficiently impressed with the yard. You would be amazed
what defects in a house will be overlooked when the buyer is enamored by
the beauty or potential beauty (if out of season) of the lot.
At moving time the log will also will help you
quickly locate those plants which you simply can't stand to leave behind.
Flowers ask very little and add so much to your life in return. Don't be surprised if at some point you find yourself praising your plants out loud. This doesn't mean you're crazy, it indicates you have earned your wings as a gardener. All good gardeners talk lovingly to and about their plants. Water and fertilizer are only the beginning. A healthy dose of love can do wonders for you and your garden.
Good luck planting